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ICE, INK, AND IDENTITY

Outlook Traveller

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June - July 2025

IN A REGION AT THE CROSSROADS OF TRADITION AND TRANSFORMATION, NOOR JAHAN STANDS AS A REMINDER THAT HERITAGE IS NOT JUST PRESERVED BUT LIVED

- ANTARAA CHATERJEE

ICE, INK, AND IDENTITY

SHESRIG LADAKH STANDS IN AN ASSURED SILENCE IN the heart of Leh's Old Town amidst crumbling mud-brick homes and winding alleyways steeped in memory. This independent art conservation initiative is more than a studio; it's a spirited stand against the slow erosion of cultural identity in one of India's most fragile heritage zones. At the helm of this effort is Noor Jahan, an art conservator and national-level ice hockey player, whose journey is as unconventional as it is inspiring.

With a Master's and PhD in Art Conservation, Jahan's career began with freelance projects across India, but it was her deep-rooted connection to Ladakh and mentorship from conservation experts Dr Sreekumar Menon and Dr Maninder Singh Gill that eventually led her home. “We saw Ladakh changing rapidly,” she recalled. “Modern infrastructure, rising tourism, everything was transforming the landscape. If we didn’t act, we risked losing more than monuments, we'd lose memory.”

In 2017, Jahan and her cousin Wajeeda Tabassum leased a dilapidated heritage home and transformed it into a conservation studio. Shesrig was born not just from academic ambition, but from a sense of urgency and responsibility. The studio now serves as a bastion of living heritage, restoring thangkas, murals, manuscripts, and sculptures with a philosophy rooted in respect for the local culture.

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SUMMER'S SURRENDER

THREE DAYS IN ZÜRICH THROUGH ITS OLD TOWN, THE LIMMAT'S RHYTHM AND THE SPIRIT OF SUMMER

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

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THE GHOSTLY GALLEON

IN SCOTLAND'S ISLE OF SKYE, the weather is never still.

time to read

1 min

October - November 2025

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THE SOLE MEMORY

I WAS LOOKING FOR A SHOE shop to get my favourite pair repaired. The August Texan heat had loosened the sole on one of them. In other times, I would have thrown the pair away rather than go through the trouble of finding a repair shop. But I loved these shoes and searched for someone to bring them back to life.

time to read

2 mins

October - November 2025

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THE LAST MILE

EVERY EVENING AT 4.30 PM, IN Hussainiwala, Punjab, a crowd gathers near the National Martyrs Memorial.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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THE MARQUESS AND THE MAESTRO

FROM GILDED ROCOCO PALACES TO WAGNER'S AWE-INSPIRING FESTSPIELHAUS, BAYREUTH TELLS A STORY OF TWO LEGACIES-ONE ROYAL, ONE MUSICAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

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A FLEETING COMMUNION

THE RITUAL IMMERSION OF DURGA IDOLS IN THE ICHAMATI RIVER TEMPORARILY TRANSGRESSES THE MANMADE DEMARCATIONS BETWEEN EAST AND WEST BENGAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

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'DEEPOTSAV' 2025: AYODHYA'S FESTIVAL OF LIGHT RETURNS IN GRAND STYLE

Rooted in the Ramayana and reborn in recent years as a global spectacle, 'Deepotsav' has transformed Ayodhya into a city of light and faith. This year's edition, on October 19, promises to be the biggest yet

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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Outlook Traveller

THE GREAT INDIAN DESTINATION WEDDING

SHAPED BY TRAVEL, TASTE, AND A RESTLESS GENERATION, DESTINATION WEDDINGS ARE REWRITING HOW INDIA CELEBRATES MARRIAGE IN 2025

time to read

8 mins

October - November 2025

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Outlook Traveller

WHERE MEMORY LIVES ON

ON A CLOUDY JULY AFTERNOON IN DAWAR, THE main hub of Gurez Valley and once the ancient capital of the Dards, I stood in its Tulaili bazaar waiting for a shared taxi.

time to read

4 mins

October - November 2025

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THE BORDERLESS GURU

THE AIR IS THIN, TINGED with the scent of juniper. A swift wind whips through faded prayer flags, while glaciers carve valleys and jagged peaks pierce a sky the colour of lapis lazuli. Standing here, the idea of political borders feels almost absurd. Maps may mark out India, Nepal, Bhutan, or Tibet, but the landscape itself refuses to be partitioned. These mountains carry a shared heritage, embodied by a single figure who transcends frontiers: Padmasambhava, the Lotus-Born. Known as Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, Padmasambhava brought Buddhism to Tibet in the eighth century. His image gazes out from gompas across the Himalayas-wrathful yet compassionate, eyes filled with the wisdom of lifetimes. To see him only as a missionary is to miss the larger truth.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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