CIRCLE OF GODDESSES

IN THE WINTER OF 2021, I was on a survey of Odisha, covering eight sites across the state. Among them, two stood apart: the Chausath Yogini temples in Ranipur Jharial and Hirapur. These open-to-sky, circular shrines—steeped in Tantric tradition and mystery—offered something more than history. They were invitations to listen.

- By ANICA MANN

Having previously visited Yogini temples in MP's Bhedaghat and Khajuraho, I was curious to understand the regional distinctiveness of Odisha's shrines. British officer Major General John Campbell, in 1864, was among the first to document them, describing temples linked to secrecy, transformation, and esoteric rites.

Following my usual rule of travelling to the most remote site first, I began with Ranipur Jharial in Balangir district, near the Andhra Pradesh border. From Bhubaneswar, I hired a young driver—someone who could be overruled if necessary. Some sites lay in tribal belts, and a little caution seemed wise.

STONE, SPIRIT, SILENCE

The long drive wound through paddy fields and ponds, groves and quiet hamlets. The terrain reminded me of parts of Thailand and Indonesia, where water and cultivation exist in a delicate balance. I arrived at the site by dusk, spent the night in a modest lodge, and set out before sunrise.

Choosing to walk across the fields instead of taking the road proved rewarding. I stumbled upon rock carvings—an emaciated Lakulisha (28th and the last avatar of Shiva) in high relief, and the Saptamatrikas (seven Hindu mother goddesses) etched on the reverse. Over time, I've learned that archaeological features often reveal themselves to those willing to wander off the prescribed path.