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AT HOME IN THE HILLS

Outlook Traveller

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December 2023 - January 2024

MAHMOOD AHMED SHAH IS A BUREAUCRAT BY PROFESSION, BUT IT IS TREKKING THROUGH THE PRISTINE TERRAINS OF HIS BEAUTIFUL KASHMIR THAT HAS HIS HEART. WE SPOKE TO HIM ABOUT HIS MOUNTAINEERING FEATS AND FUTURE PLANS

- ANINDITA GHOSH

AT HOME IN THE HILLS

FOR A MAN PASSIONATE about mountains, Mahmood Ahmed Shah couldn't have been born in a better place. Growing up in Kashmir, Shah spent hours gazing at the mountains in the distance, dreaming of someday exploring the mighty peaks that filled his soul with intrigue and wanderlust.

Today, as Director of Industries and Commerce and Handicrafts and Handloom, Kashmir, Shah is a busy and respected bureaucrat; however, his governmental duties haven't stopped him from pursuing his passion. He has the distinction of exploring 112 Alpine lakes in the region and circumambulation of the entire Kashmir Valley. He also happens to be a patron of the Jammu and Kashmir Mountaineering and Adventure Club, established in 1934, and will soon publish a coffee table book on the valleys of Kashmir. We caught up with him to learn more about his journeys.

> What made you undertake your first trek? What was the experience like?

FLERE HISTORIER FRA Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

SUMMER'S SURRENDER

THREE DAYS IN ZÜRICH THROUGH ITS OLD TOWN, THE LIMMAT'S RHYTHM AND THE SPIRIT OF SUMMER

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE GHOSTLY GALLEON

IN SCOTLAND'S ISLE OF SKYE, the weather is never still.

time to read

1 min

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE SOLE MEMORY

I WAS LOOKING FOR A SHOE shop to get my favourite pair repaired. The August Texan heat had loosened the sole on one of them. In other times, I would have thrown the pair away rather than go through the trouble of finding a repair shop. But I loved these shoes and searched for someone to bring them back to life.

time to read

2 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE LAST MILE

EVERY EVENING AT 4.30 PM, IN Hussainiwala, Punjab, a crowd gathers near the National Martyrs Memorial.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE MARQUESS AND THE MAESTRO

FROM GILDED ROCOCO PALACES TO WAGNER'S AWE-INSPIRING FESTSPIELHAUS, BAYREUTH TELLS A STORY OF TWO LEGACIES-ONE ROYAL, ONE MUSICAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

A FLEETING COMMUNION

THE RITUAL IMMERSION OF DURGA IDOLS IN THE ICHAMATI RIVER TEMPORARILY TRANSGRESSES THE MANMADE DEMARCATIONS BETWEEN EAST AND WEST BENGAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

'DEEPOTSAV' 2025: AYODHYA'S FESTIVAL OF LIGHT RETURNS IN GRAND STYLE

Rooted in the Ramayana and reborn in recent years as a global spectacle, 'Deepotsav' has transformed Ayodhya into a city of light and faith. This year's edition, on October 19, promises to be the biggest yet

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE GREAT INDIAN DESTINATION WEDDING

SHAPED BY TRAVEL, TASTE, AND A RESTLESS GENERATION, DESTINATION WEDDINGS ARE REWRITING HOW INDIA CELEBRATES MARRIAGE IN 2025

time to read

8 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

WHERE MEMORY LIVES ON

ON A CLOUDY JULY AFTERNOON IN DAWAR, THE main hub of Gurez Valley and once the ancient capital of the Dards, I stood in its Tulaili bazaar waiting for a shared taxi.

time to read

4 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE BORDERLESS GURU

THE AIR IS THIN, TINGED with the scent of juniper. A swift wind whips through faded prayer flags, while glaciers carve valleys and jagged peaks pierce a sky the colour of lapis lazuli. Standing here, the idea of political borders feels almost absurd. Maps may mark out India, Nepal, Bhutan, or Tibet, but the landscape itself refuses to be partitioned. These mountains carry a shared heritage, embodied by a single figure who transcends frontiers: Padmasambhava, the Lotus-Born. Known as Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, Padmasambhava brought Buddhism to Tibet in the eighth century. His image gazes out from gompas across the Himalayas-wrathful yet compassionate, eyes filled with the wisdom of lifetimes. To see him only as a missionary is to miss the larger truth.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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