Undercover LUXURY

Sri Lanka's east coast is still wonderfully unspoiled, writes LEE TULLOCH.

- LEE TULLOCH.

There is so much beauty and abundance in Sri Lanka, but the teardrop-shaped island has suffered more than its share of misfortune. The 2004 tsunami, which claimed 30,000 lives, the 26-year civil war, the Easter 2019 bombings, and last year’s economic crisis, which saw scenes of peaceful protests at the Presidential palace, have all had a severely dampening effect on tourism over the past two decades.

And yet, you would not have an inkling of this now as you cycle down its shady lanes, visit its many uncrowded beaches, take in its temples and ancient monuments, wander through its verdant tea-planted hill country, or take a thrilling safari in its eastern jungles. The war ended in 2009, the economic crisis has been averted and the incredibly resilient people are the most welcoming in the world. Wander through any village and you’re likely to be invited in for a cup of tea.

Sri Lanka was once thought of as a backpacker’s destination and even though a few coastal towns such as Hikkaduwa attract the sort of tourist that might gravitate to Bali’s Kuta, there are hundreds of beaches that see few people except local fisherman, even on the busier southern coast. Now the country is seen as a luxury destination, with a very high standard of service and accommodation, but still relatively inexpensive, due to a good exchange rate with the rupee.