OMAKASE RISING

The once-underground scene keeps getting more popular, thanks in part to an influential group of omakase obsessives. CALLUM MCDERMOTT takes a seat at one of Australia's most in-demand tables.

- CALLUM MCDERMOTT

I'm at Sokyo's renowned omakase, with five other lucky guests. It's one of Sydney's toughest reservations to snare, and we're excited. Chef Sanghyeop Kim stands behind the transparent counter. He's new to the role but if he's nervous, it doesn't show. As he fashions a cavalcade of 20 or so dishes, knife gleaming as it transforms the imperador, trevally, akami and whatever else was fresh at the market this morning into art, he narrates exactly what he's doing, while his captive audience tests him with erudite and esoteric questions. The couple next to me tell him that they do this omakase - every month. Twelve a year? Surely no one does something this special that often?