Classic Climbs Timmeljoch

Austria's ancient smuggling route

- Words Laurence Kilpatrick Photography Alice Gough

For Austrian cyclists climbing to the border with Italy, it's known as the Timmelsjoch. For Italian cyclists climbing to the border from the other side, it's known as the Passo del Rombo. But long before any cyclists tackled this pass, it was a well-trodden route for smugglers.

From the 13th to 15th centuries, Ötztaler Kraxenträger, or basket bearers, risked their lives to haul goods such as food, livestock and materials over the high-altitude pass, as it was the shortest route to the old capital of Merano, home of Tyrol Castle.

Those smugglers would have to wait until 1933 before their route became paved, when Mussolini decided he needed a military access point, just in case he was in the mood to attack Austria. Then they would have to wait until 1968 for the road as it is now to be completed, and then another few decades still before their smuggling ways would be celebrated and immortalised in an imposing memorial, which comes just before the toughest part of what is now a beautifully well-maintained climb.

Timmelsjoch translates as ‘small hill'. The Italian name translates as 'The Pass of Thunder'. That's more like it

Up the gurgling valley

In roads, as in culture, the Austrians and the Italians do things differently (think The Sound Of Music vs The Godfather). The Austrian name Timmelsjoch has its roots in the Romansh word tömbl, which translates as 'small hill', making it sound rather feeble. Meanwhile the Italian name, Passo del Rombo, translates as 'The Pass of Thunder'. That's more like it.