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The unspoiled part of Wales with secluded bays and dolphins

Western Mail

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April 19, 2025

This underrated coastal sweep has wildlife-rich waters and small towns with boutiques and swish cafes, as Portia Jones finds out

ASI look out over the frothing swells of the Irish Sea, bathed in a warm, honeyed glow, I can't help but feel a little smug about the perfect timing of our evening stroll along the craggy cliffs.

The sun is sinking quickly, casting a dazzling kaleidoscope of colour as golden hues melt into deep sapphire over the coastline of Cardigan Bay, creating a cinematic scene that would rival the Mediterranean.

It strikes me that it's just the two of us here, just me and my husband, Luke, taking in this spectacular sunset with barely another soul in sight.

Perhaps that's because Cardigan Bay remains one of Wales' most underrated stretches of coastline, sandwiched between the headline-grabbing beauty of Pembrokeshire and the Llŷn Peninsula. In 2023, Time Out magazine even dubbed the town of Cardigan the "most underrated" spot in west Wales.

I've come to explore some of the highlights of the vast curve of Cardigan Bay - a stronghold of Welsh language and culture, where you can visit ancient castles, shop for local crafts and try local produce at a food festival. Here, you can experience Wales as its most authentic self, zipping between secluded bays to spot dolphins, trekking the coastal path and feasting on piping hot fish and chips in small fishing villages.

Why battle the crowds elsewhere when you could be discovering Cardigan Bay's wild, underappreciated beauty instead?

Here's my guide on the best things to see and do...

GO ON A WILDLIFE-WATCHING BOAT TRIP

Cardigan Bay stretches over 129 miles, from Bardsey Island off the Llŷn Peninsula in the north to the wild headland of Strumble Head in the south. It's home to the largest population of dolphins in Europe, and its rich waters are a haven for wildlife, including seals and seabirds.

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