Waterside regal haven is queen of the West Country

Martin Hesp spends a cosy weekend in the picturesque harbourside town of Dartmouth

- Martin Hesp

The refurbished bar at the Royal Castle

There is something special about Dartmouth. I have no particular reason for saying it - no axe to grind either way, no friends or family living there, no commercial interests, not even any special memories such as the happy beginning of a long-lost love affair - but say it I do, and I've been repeating it for years...

A quarter of a century ago I wrote a newspaper series about all the harbour-towns dotted around the South West peninsula, and back then this is how I started an article about this most regal of havens...

"Dartmouth could be described as the Queen of Westcountry ports. Maybe it’s something to do with the Naval College which overlooks the town with an air of imperial majesty. Or perhaps it's something to do with the classy shops that line Dartmouth’s picturesque streets. Or it could be some subliminal belief that any village called Kingswear, which lies opposite the river, should have its queen.

Then there is the River Dart itself that flows so serenely between the twin castles at its mouth.

Upstream, the woods are like ermine and the water is deep azure.”

And I am happy to repeat the words here. Happy indeed to wax lyrical about Dartmouth once again, because last week I enjoyed a very pleasant couple of days staying right in the very heart of the waterside town.

Given all I've said, you can imagine how pleased I was to receive an invitation to sample a famous inn which adorns the very crown of this Queen of Westcountry ports. St Austell Brewery have just reopened the Royal Castle, one of Dartmouth’s most recognisable buildings, following an extensive nine-month refurbishment.

And I can report that this classic old inn, dating back to the 17th century and sitting right there on the side of the town’s inner harbour, has been most tastefully and thoughtfully restored.