The Train That Shaped Me

A writer reflects on how, as a child, an Indian sleeper train awakened a passion for life on the rails. More than 30 years later, trains remain her favorite way to see the world.

- BY MONISHA RAJESH

I WAS NINE when I first rode an Indian sleeper train. Shaking out the bedding provided in a brown paper bag, I watched my fellow passengers make up their berths, tucking in starched sheets with the ease of seasoned travelers. Tufts of cotton wool