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Fast fashion squeezes UK middle-market brands

The Observer

|

November 16, 2025

Fast-fashion brand Shein held a concession at BHV Marais in Paris earlier this month that attracted long queues and 50,000 visitors in its first five days, each forking out an average of €45.

- Emma Haslett

Meanwhile, on the other side of the Rue de Rivoli, protesters waved placards criticising the brand’s alleged forced labour practices.

If Chinese-made fast fashion has such a strong grip on France, the home of couture, what chance do other markets stand? Shein’s bricks-and-mortar forays into the UK may have so far been limited to a few short-lived popups in British cities, but the impact it has had on the fast fashion sector is decidedly permanent.

Just a few days after the Paris opening, that impact was made clear when Associated British Foods (ABF), owner of the fast-fashion retailer Primark, announced in its end-of-year results that it was considering spinning off the clothing retailer.

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