Empire state of mind

Mayank Bhutra talks about how he came to create his label, the cowboy-meets-couture aesthetic that has become his signature, and the story behind Chola, his latest collection

- By Manu Vipin

HE IS INSPIRED by all things Erode the rustic rawness, the playful yet graceful demeanour of its people, their subtlety, and effortless class. All of this finds its way into Mayank Bhutra's designs. A Rajasthani by birth, he identifies deeply with Tamil culture Erode's own-and his textiles and silhouettes reflect that spirit with honesty and pride.

Fresh off Sri Lanka Fashion Week, the island's premier fashion event, where Mayank showcased his latest collection, Chola, even as he simultaneously held a month-long pop-up in Chennai. At first glance, his designs appear rustic; look closer and you find a dreamlike refinement, garments that are classic yet earthy, rooted to the land that shaped the brand. The collection feels youthful, meaningful, and rich with stories.

We caught up with the young designer during his Chennai showcase. He spoke about how he came to create his label, the cowboy-meetscouture aesthetic that has become his signature, the challenges faced by today's weavers, and the story behind Chola, which is a collection built not on motifs but on emotion.

For Mayank, Chola is a feeling strength, independence, rawness, and pride.

You chose the name Erode Clothing. What was the thought behind it?

It was a conscious decision. I was born in Rajasthan but grew up in Erode, and that's where I feel at home. The name is a wordplay-Erode the place, and 'erode' as in the erosion of culture. That subtle ambiguity is something I wanted the brand to carry.

How did growing up in Erode shape the brand's identity?

Textiles have been a part of my life since childhood. We lived among looms initially the noise kept me awake, but eventually it became a melody. That sound is the rhythm of life in Erode. Even today, I instinctively touch any fabric to feel its texture and pattern. The brand is essentially an extension of that early exposure.