SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

After two years traversing Sri Lanka, Lydia Swinscoe has found her beachside idyll in the diminutive village of Madiha

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Backed by picture-perfect coconut trees, and boasting white, golden and red sands frequented by nesting turtles, Sri Lanka’s beaches are utterly idyllic.

It’s why, since arriving in the country two years ago, I’ve made it my mission to hunt down some of the most beautiful ones. I’ve travelled by local bus, car and tuk-tuk, from deserted stretches of sand in Jaffna in the north - which are dotted with wooden, brightly painted fishing boats - to Kalkuda and Pasikuda in the east, with their calm cerulean waters, all the way to the tourist-loved south coast, where more than 30 beaches vie for attention. It’s here that the majority of visitors to Sri Lanka spend their time.

Ahangama, Weligama, Unawatuna and Hiriketiya dominate itineraries, due to a high concentration of bars and cafes that appeal to the Insta-crowds. But if, like me, you’d rather wander deserted beaches and get to know the people who call the island home, rather than fellow Brits, there’s one place you should make a beeline for: the tiny beachside village of Madiha.

Tucked away off the main south coastal road, and sandwiched between the towns of Kamburugamuwa and Polhena, Madiha often gets overlooked because of its diminutive size, yet it’s a place where I love to linger.

There are just enough cafes and restaurants for a week-long holiday, while a safe swimming spot sits mere footsteps away from the village, the surf is good, and outside of peak season (April to November), there are hardly any tourists around. To me, it is perfect. Here’s what to do, see, eat and drink in this pretty and low-key beach destination.

What to do