Riga rightly in the running for 2026's coolest city break

The capital of Latvia is undergoing a cultural renaissance, Here's how to soak in its vibrant art scene, inspiring architecture and chic cafe culture

- Elise Morton

The lobster painting in Riga's Central Market has become my holiday landmark. I've now visited Latvia's capital 10 times since 2017, and on each trip I make a pilgrimage to the seafood hall to pay my respects to that faded crustacean mural. Then I like to step outside to sip kvass from a plastic cup, the traditional fermented bread drink dispensed from enormous barrels at the food and drink stalls. It's a ritual that anchors me in a city that refuses to stand still.

When I first arrived in Riga eight years ago, I couldn't have predicted it would become my favourite Baltic city. I've since visited for art events such as the Riga Biennial (currently on pause) and Survival Kit festival, both of which are a testament to the creative energy of the city. But it wasn't until I ventured beyond the colourful, cobblestoned Old Town (where stag parties stumble between medieval spires) that I understood what makes this city extraordinary.

Riga is experiencing a cultural renaissance that feels both organic and inevitable. Solvita Krese, director of the Latvian Centre for Contemporary Art, explains that the city's art scene is defined by “intimacy and intensity”.