It is Rabat's time to shine

Kate Wickers drifts through calm and culturally intriguing streets in a Unesco-listed city showcasing laidback Morocco

- Kate Wickers

Tucked away in the Kasbah des Oudayas, in Rabat, Morocco's capital city by the sea, I bite into a pastilla (a delicious mix of shredded chicken, almonds, cinnamon, saffron and honey encased in buttery, flaky pastry).

I'm in Dar El Karam Fatima, a family-run cafe with outside seating on a higgle-piggle of rooftop terraces. My view is of the river Bou Regreg at the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean, where flouka (wooden row boats) ferry goods and passengers between Rabat and the 10th-century city of Salé that lies on the opposite bank.

“Take your time, Madam,” is the invitation from my fez-wearing waiter.

This is good advice because Rabat is not a hectic place and is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Long overshadowed by exotic Marrakesh (now regarded by many as more hassle than hip), Unesco-listed Rabat is fast becoming a favourite with those seeking a more authentic Moroccan experience. There’s much more to the city than being the seat of government, and the white-washed 12th-century Kasbah is a good starting point, where stray cats prowl under flower-filled balconies, creating an unexpected Greek island vibe.

What is purely Moroccan is the enormous horseshoe-shaped, rose-hued stone gate of Bab Oudaia, built in 1195, which I pass through to wind down through car-free streets to the citrusblossom-scented Andalusian Gardens, planted under French protectorate in the early 20th century.