CZECH BRNO OUT

Tired of battling with the crowds in Prague, Lucie Grace discovers the cultural delights of the country's second city

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I can't help but let out an audible sigh of relief as I leave Prague behind, melting into a seat on a RegioJet train speeding southwards. The city I loved 20 years ago has lost its charm for me. And that's not Prague's fault - it's mine. I wilt in crowded places these days.

Staring out of the train window at the forested hillsides, the wagons whizz towards Brno, the Czech Republic’s second city. As the capital of Moravia, one of the large historical Czech regions, Brno is not short on medieval sites and picturesque pastel-coloured buildings.

Today, the city has a teeming live music scene, thriving art museums and, of course, excellent beer halls. Most importantly, there’s not a hen or stag-do in sight — this is a city that’s yet to be discovered by the crowds of tourists. These are the sites to see, and where to stay for a slice of city break heaven.

Get gothic

The pretty city is home to a cache of churches, a cathedral and a rather spooky ossuary. The 600-year-old Church of St James has a bell tower to ascend, but my tip is to visit the forgotten and recently excavated ossuary holding centuries-old bones of plague, cholera and war victims that are now carefully piled up in four small chapel rooms in the crypt underneath the church. It’s one of many subterranean spaces to visit in Brno - the former prison under the 13th-century Spilberk Castle, and the labyrinth under the food market are also creepy underground places to cool off from the heat of the summer.

Savour the hops