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'How hell burns' The dark day a massacre unfolded in one Iranian city
The Guardian
|February 07, 2026
On 8 January, Iran went dark. In the midst of national protests, the government shut down the internet, phone networks and almost all communication.
That evening a violent crackdown began, in which thousands according to some estimates, tens of thousands - died. The internet blackout has meant that a clearer picture of what happened has taken time to assemble.
When the violence began, there were demonstrations in more than 200 cities. This is the story of what unfolded in one of those cities.
Thursday 8 January, 5pm When Iranian authorities shut down the internet, Ali*, 36, and his friends were already marching towards Shariati Street, which runs along the edge of the grand bazaar in Rasht, central Iran. By the time they reached the road, thousands were already there, chanting freedom slogans.
The protests had been building since Tuesday, with people from smaller surrounding cities making their way to Rasht to join them, flocking to the grand bazaar: a vibrant, historic marketplace that sprawls across a hive of alleyways.
Its location at the intersection of arterial streets made it the heart of Rasht's bustling life - and a natural hub for demonstrators. That evening, it was packed. "I would estimate there were more than 20,000 people surrounding the alleys and the boulevards near the bazaar," says Ali.
All ages were there, he says. "My friend brought along his wife and his two daughters, one nine and the other 12." Even when they realised the internet had been cut off, he was not worried. "It didn't matter if there was no internet or no calls.
We were all in this together and didn't feel any danger." Less than a mile north-west of Shariati Street was Siamak*. The 40-year-old had been cautious about joining the protesters, but understood why they were there.
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