Stray dogs and parasites threaten Darwin's paradise isles

At the dream destination for bucket listers and bird watchers, there are downsides to a dependency on tourism

- Kimberley Brown

Carolina Proaño has her head to the ground on her family farm on Santa Cruz, one of the four inhabited islands in Galápagos. The biologist, who is checking nests for signs of new eggs or recent visits, has long been trying to save the Galápagos petrel, a critically endangered black and white seabird known for returning to its ground-based nests during mating season.

A few months ago, Proaño visited the site and found two adult petrels dead in front of their nests. They had been attacked by stray dogs, species introduced to the islands by humans and a growing menace to the local biodiversity. "I nearly died [of shock]," said Proaño.

Ecuador's Galápagos archipelago is known for its wide variety of unique and endemic species, such as large tortoises and the blue-footed booby.

But over the years, environmental and human-induced pressures have created challenges for conservationists and local populations.

Tourism and populations have risen steadily since 1959, when the Galápagos national park was created. The park protects 97% of the archipelago and leaves only 3% available to be inhabited by humans.

In 2023, nearly 330,000 visitors passed through the islands, a 23% increase from the previous year. Today, about 29,000 people live on the inhabited islands, mainly to service the tourism industry.

One of the biggest repercussions has been the introduction of species, including pets as well as bugs and parasites from the cargo boats that bring building materials and food.