Finding Paithani in Paithan

An exhibition attempts to examine the cultural history of the state's trophy textile

- Pooja Singh

When it comes to traditional textiles, one of the biggest tragedies is that little has been done to document their histories. Varanasi, for instance, has only recently started a centre dedicated to showcasing its centuriesold fine weaving techniques. Kancheepuram still doesn't have a full-fledged museum to present the refined skills of weavers in Tamil Nadu. This, when the textiles of these regions have long been topics of conversation, both nationally and internationally.

In such a scenario, Paithan is largely missing from the history book of textiles. The ancient town, some 50km from Maharashtra's Aurangabad city, is known for its Paithani, a trophy textile of the Deccan that's synonymous with the sartorial culture of Maratha royalty from the 18th-early 20th centuries. So integral is the Paithani sari-eye-catching with its jewel tones in fine silks and embellished with floral and bird-inspired motifs brought alive traditionally in real gold zari-to the state that it is often the go-to outfit of Maharashtrian brides. Even celebrities in the state flaunt it on festivals and special occasions. But what's the history of Paithani?