How Thai Is That Green Curry?

After Goa, Fireback arrives in Mumbai to turn your perception of Thai cuisine on its head

- Prachi Joshi

mention the words "green curry" on the Zoom call, and chef David Thompson fires his first salvo. "I've opened restaurants across the world, and one of the least controversial dishes I've ever had is the green curry. But here (in India), everybody has an opinion on it and I just think to myself; wow, it's a simple dish. Why is it so contentious?" Thompson, who has nearly four decades of global experience in Thai cuisine under his belt, is the culinary director at the recently opened Fireback in Mumbai. And the dish in question is the khmoy green curry, a robust, spicy dish loaded with heart of palm, babycorn, and cauliflower served with fragrant jasmine rice.

It's quite unlike the coconut milk-based green curry in your average Thai restaurant in Mumbai (which Thompson likens to cream of asparagus soup). I remember eating this dish at Fireback Goa when it opened in December 2023, and I revisited it in Mumbai last week. In both instances, it blew my socks off and reminded me of what Thai food tastes like in Thailand—bold and flavourful.