Of faith, family, and flavors: Lent and legacy at La Virginia

For many Filipino families, Lent is a time of reflection, quiet traditions, and meaningful meals. But for acclaimed culinary artist Chef Heny Sison and restaurateur Queenie Paras, it is also a season that continues to shape their relationship with food—and by extension, the way they feed the city.

- By FELICIANO RODRIGUEZ III

Over lunch at their newest Italian restaurant La Virginia, tucked in a quiet corner of Sct. Rallos Street, the two shared not just their latest dishes but stories of faith, family, and the flavors that have carried them through decades of Holy Week traditions.

“Lent was always a reflective time for our family,” said Chef Heny. “There was no music, just prayer. We observed fasting on Fridays. Maundy Thursday was for Visita Iglesia, visiting seven churches and praying the Stations of the Cross. It was quiet, but filled with meaning.”

For Heny, food during Holy Week was simple, yet unforgettable. “My mother always made bacalao on Good Friday—salted cod stewed with tomatoes, olives, potatoes, and capers. It’s a dish I still prepare to this day. We also had adobong alimango, ginisang gulay, and monggo with fried fish, for those days when abstinence wasn’t required.”

Queenie’s Lenten memories bring her back to the coastal town of Cabugao in Ilocos Sur.