A very Tagalog pop-up

What does a traditional Tagalog dinner taste like? I don’t mean the lutong bahay of today; I mean what did it taste like decades before?

- By ISABELLA PATRICIA VILLARREAL ASSOCIATED PRESS

Raffy Tesoro, a partner at Bio-Genetics Agriventures Inc. and guest cook at James & Daughters, together with guest chef Jason Drilon, tries to answer that question in their pop-up at James & Daughters in Pasig city on April 5 and 6, 2025.

Tesoro said that the concept for the dinner started as a craving for some good sinampalukang manok done the old-fashioned way without the short-cuts and instant powders.

"While hunting down the ingredients for it, I realized that many dishes, recipes and ingredients are losing traction and visibility in most menus now. What was available 20 - 50 years ago has slowly disappeared, to the detriment of our food culture and versatility," Tesoro said.

The tasting menu is very simple and rustic, relying on quality ingredients and an adherence to traditional cooking techniques. "We decided on ensaladang pako na may kamatis at kesong puti, kulawong talong, sinampalukang manok, piniritong hito na may lato at suam and leche flan gawa sa itlog ng pato. A very Tagalog menu based on some of my experiences during my childhood," Tesoro said. "Once upon a time, one could find these dishes anywhere. Now I'd like people to experience just a little of what was lost to the winds of change and give a window into some of the foundations of our culture."