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Journey through Côte D'ivoire

Mail & Guardian

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M&G 19 December 2025

Abidjan announces itself as a city shaped by water, movement and confidence.

- Marion Smith

Often referred to as the Pearl of the Lagoons, it sits at the intersection of tradition and modern West African urban life. French is the dominant language, a legacy that still surfaces in daily rhythms, from café culture to administrative formality, but the city’s character is distinctly its own.

From Abidjan, travel north reveals a different Côte d'Ivoire altogether. The road to Korhogo cuts through shifting landscapes, where dense greenery gradually gives way to earthier tones. This northern region is known less for spectacle than for continuity, where cultural practices remain embedded in everyday life. The Boloye, or panther dance, is one such expression. Performed by masked dancers whose movements are precise and controlled, it draws on ancestral symbolism rather than theatrical display. Drumming provides both structure and narrative, carrying stories preserved through repetition and ritual.

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