A life behind the samosa

On a culinary landmark

- Mayank Austen Soofi

Here is a shrine to a fellow citizen's sweat, struggles, and steadfastness. And—perhaps this thing should have been mentioned first—it is an essential pilgrimage for anybody who aspires to be a true city gourmand.

The capital has very many places that rustle out excellent samosas. Lalita Devi's pavement stall in Connaught Place is one of those. It makes tiny samosas, each the size of a single morsel. You may call it the cocktail samosa. All day long, here on Connaught Lane, Lalita Devi and her two sons are seen slapping the potato mix inside the samosa patties, deep-frying the mini triangles in hissing oil.