SWEET LOVE

From Oregon, a chocolate cake that changes hearts and minds

- Story by CARA BUCKLEY/NYT

In Oregon, there’s a through line from 19th century saints to 21st century sinners. They both sought salvation, of a sort, by eschewing meat.

It was in Portland, in the 1890s, that Seventh-day Adventists opened one of the first vegetarian restaurants in the country, in line with their belief that a godly diet was one of fruit, vegetables, legumes and grains.

It was also in Portland, more than hundred years later, that Johnny Diablo Zukle opened a vegan strip club, now in its 18th year.

Portland, highly praised for its food scene, is a hot spot for vegans, who don't eat dairy or meat. The maker of Tofurky, the vegan holiday roast, is headquartered nearby, as is Bob's Red Mill, global purveyor of artisanal whole grains.