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Kashmiri-Australian cook Sarina Kamini shares recipes that show masala to be so much more than spice.

- By PATRICIA NIVEN

This isn't a dish on our regular family roster, and I can safely say that would be pretty much true for any family across India's regions.

The weight and richness of dal makhani makes it a "sometimes" dish, one that's ordered when eating out, probably alongside tandoor-cooked naan.

It demonstrates the effect of fleur de sel, showing how a single change in masala introduces a new library of sensory information.

DAL MAKHANI

Serves 8 as part of a meal

24 HOURS BEFORE COOKING

• ¾ cup (150g) urad dal (black lentils)

• ¼ cup (50g) rajma (red kidney beans)

• plenty of cold water

FOR PRESSURE COOKING

• 3 cups (750ml) water

• 2 tsp fine white sea salt

FOR THE MAIN COOKING PHASE

• 40g salted butter

• 40g ghee

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 1 tbsp crushed garlic

• 1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger

• ½ cup tomato paste (concentrated purée)

MASALA

• 2 tsp fleur de sel (available at specialty stores)

• 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder

• 1 tsp Ammi's garam masala (see below)

FOR SIMMERING

• 1½ cups (375ml) water

TO FINISH

• 20g salted butter

• ¼ cup (125ml) pouring cream

• ½ tsp red chilli powder (optional)

AMMI'S GARAM MASALA

This recipe makes enough garam masala to use for a little while. If you don't think you'll use it much, make a half quantity. You don't want to keep freshly ground whole spices for longer than a few months. Makes 1½ cups (150g)

• 1 cup black cardamom seeds

• ½ cup green cardamom pods

• 1/3 cup cumin seeds

• 1½ tbsp cloves

• 1½ tbsp of mace flower

• 4 large dried bay leaves

• 2 nutmegs