Different Strokes

For nearly 50 years, Santoni has distinguished itself among handmade shoemakers with its signature painting technique. Here's how the Italian atelier creates its modern classics.

- Words: Naomi Rougeau

In an origin story more reminiscent of a technology start-up than a luxury-leather-goods brand, Andrea Santoni founded his business in a garage with only five employees and the aim of scaling artisanal shoemaking—think of him as the Henry Ford of luxury footwear. The year was 1975 and Santoni was eager to differentiate his wares from the largely subdued offerings typically available to men. By adopting the Renaissance-era velatura painting technique, layering watercolour-like dyes onto leather before buffing the surface to a glassy sheen, Santoni quickly made a name for himself.

Though initial offerings were heavy on inky blues and unusual browns, the atelier now offers a full spectrum of colours and treatments, ranging from saturated solids to dramatic ombres. Today, the artistic bent also extends to Santoni's sophisticated shapes and proportions—chiselled, elongated toes and elegantly swooped vamps—found in styles ranging from double-buckle loafers to Oxford brogues.

Giuseppe Santoni, current chairman and executive president (and Andrea's son), says that Santoni customers “appreciate unique pieces and valuable products”, but insists that “they are not followers of fashion”.