Momofuku Swaps Pork Buns for Beef Patties

The company stakes its future on a chef not named David Chang.

- TAMMIE TECLEMARIAM

THE PEAK of its sprawl, Momofuku's empire comprised 13 restaurants across six cities on two continents. There were fast-casual satellites-Milk Bar, Fuku, Bang Bar-and a companion magazine. Tying it all together was David Chang's bro-chef sensibility, a talent for blending East Asian techniques and American comfort food that has now been distilled into a grocery line of instant ramen and condiments, Chang's Ringer podcast, and his Netflix cooking show. Meanwhile, the number of full-service Momofuku restaurants dwindled to four. But the most recent to close-Ko-is turning into the company's first entirely new restaurant since 2019: Kabawa (8 Extra Pl., instagram .​com/kabawa) is a reimagining of what a Momofuku restaurant can be-I didn't see one peach illustration as I walked through with chef Paul Carmichael stepping in to lead.