WATCHES OF THE YEAR

This year's Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève brought together some of the most inventive watchmaking of the moment. From headline-grabbing technical feats to quiet tastefulness, the 2025 competition delivered a sharp mix of icons, independents, unexpected standouts and an evolving sense of minimal noise, maximum craftsmanship. We round up some of the winners that grabbed our attention

- By Sharan Sanil

Aiguille d’Or
Breguet, Classique Souscription 2025
Breguet’s top honour this y

ear went to the Classique Souscription 2025, a modern reading of the brand’s early subscription watches. The enamel dial keeps things pared back, anchored by a single blued steel hand and framed by a warm 40mm Breguet-gold case. Inside, the hand-wound VSOO calibre offers a 96-hour reserve. It’s classic Breguet: quiet confidence, sharp finishing, and an older idea carried forward with welcome restraint.

Chronometry Prize
Zenith, G.F.J. Calibre 135
Zenith revived one of its most decorated observatory calibres for the GFJ 135, bringing competition-grade precision into a contemporary lapis-lazuli dial package. The platinum case keeps things compact at 39mm, while the updated COSC-certified movement now runs for 72 hours. The minute textures—from the brick-pattern guilloché ring to the cerulean mother-of-pearl seconds dial—give the watch a richness that rewards close viewing without tipping into excess.

Iconic Watch Prize
Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Audemars Piguet’s perpetual calendar moves into a more intuitive era with the new Calibre 7138, which lets you adjust every function through a single crown. It’s a simple fix that quietly transforms the way collectors interact with the complication, while improving overall legibility. The movement debuts across three references—a 41 mm Code 11.59 and two Royal Oaks—making the QP feel sharper, smarter and far easier to live with.