Old Beijing, new decadence

At Mandarin Oriental, Qianmen, in-house fine-dining and proximity to Beijing's traditional eateries make for a hyperlocal foodie holiday.

- BY GRACE MA

In Beijing's hutongs — narrow lanes separating rows of siheyuan (courtyard houses) — ordinary folk raise families and build communities, often for generations.

Mandarin Oriental, Qianmen brought hutong living to another level when it opened in September 2024 along Beijing's famous Central Axis. Its 42 courtyard suites are spread across eight alleyways of the Caochang hutong, interspersed among actual homes.

From sensitively restored architecture, including original timber beams, bricks, tiles and carvings, to contemporary details like enamel flower screens and calligraphy-inspired art, it is hard to imagine these lanes once stored straw for livestock.

The local vibes extend beyond design to thoughtful culinary offerings. The hotel is the gateway to Beijing's famous snacks in many ways. For instance, the breakfast spread at Italian restaurant Vicini included sweetened soy milk, fried dough fritters and braised pork intestines in a light, flavourful broth, along with meat pies, stuffed meat pancakes and guotie (pan-fried dumplings).

Vicini is the epitome of its name, which means “neighbours” in Italian. After arriving on a red-eye flight and exploring all day, a simple dinner of prosciutto and tagliatelle alla boscaiola, cooked with sausage, asparagus, seasonal mushrooms and a cream sauce, hit all the right comfort notes. If you want your pasta al dente, let them know because the locals prefer theirs well cooked.