Jnane Rumi, Marrakech, Morocco

THERE is a case to be made that Marrakech, Morocco, is the world capital of hotels. From boutique riads in the Medina to adobe estates in the desert, the variety and quality is probably unmatched anywhere.

- Christopher Wallace

Five of my favourite hotels in the whole world are here—and more are popping up all the time. Easily the most talked about opening this year is the brand-new Jnane Rumi—and for good reason. Or several reasons. I am still, many weeks after my visit, haunted by the hotel's signature scent, a clear oud (blended with secret spices). I have been craving the marvellous meals I had at tile tables by the pool, shaded by bougainvillea and nodding palm fronds. In fact, the grounds—with a grassy garden dotted with cane chairs and tasselled umbrellas that feels like the set for an enchanted Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, a stony olive grove a