ESCAPE ARDBEG

Dazzling design flourishes accompany mouthwatering seafood and smoky whisky at this new hotel on Islay

- Adrianne Webster

The flight to Islay seems specifically designed for Americans arriving to discover their Scottish heritage: a stewardess bedecked in tartan walks the aisle of the teeny propeller plane, handing out Tunnock's Caramel Wafers. I can't help smiling at the wonder on my fellow passengers' faces as we swoop down to the craggy, misty island below.

Defying stereotype altogether, however, is Islay's Ardbeg House. It belongs to Ardbeg Distillery, itself owned by Glenmorangie since the 1990s, which was recently acquired by LVMH. British design powerhouse Russell Sage was the natural choice to take on the interiors, having already excelled with Ballater's Fife Arms and Fish Shop, as well as Glenmorangie House in Tain.

The past three years of development - "three years of bonkersness", as Sage puts it has produced a stay that's out of this world. The unassuming white frontage hides a Narnia of disco balls, party lights and wild exuberance.

An actual fishing boat hangs as a chandelier in the bar. It's very dramatic, very theatrical, very Russell Sage.