VINTAGE PORT 2020

The dark, lush 2020 Ports are in short supply but worth tracking down 

- JAMES MOLESWORTH

Vintage Port is one of the world's most distinctive and ageworthy wines. Boasting a long history, the production of Port remains steeped in tradition today. Because of this stature, as well as the need to cellar Vintage Ports for two decades or more before they reach their peak, buying these consistently high quality wines requires a commitment on the part of the consumer-but one that is amply rewarded.

The release of the 2020 vintage, from a hot growing season marked by intense fruit and low yields, offers fans the chance to buy Vintage Ports that will mature a bit sooner than truly classic years such as 2017 and 2011. Though lacking a bit in terms of vibrancy and structure, the 2020s deliver a very hedonistic experience.

This is an ideal starter vintage for those looking to explore these unique wines, while loyal collectors will discover a few exceptional bottlings they'll want to add to their cellars.

Port wine comes from the Douro region of Portugal, upriver from the neighboring towns of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia where the river empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The oldest demarcated region in the world, dating to 1756, the Douro in many ways remains stuck in time. Temperature-controlled cellars and stainless steel vats didn't make inroads here until just more than a generation ago, and many wineries still work with old granite lagares for macerating the grapes and large used wooden casks for aging the wines.

Port is a fortified wine, born from the addition of a neutral grape brandy that is added very early in the fermentation, halting the process and locking in residual sugars. The timing and proportion of the brandy addition tends to be specific to each house, resulting in a range of styles, from full-on sweet to slightly drier, though all Ports are dessert wines and all check in around 20% ABV.