SPAIN'S BOUNTY

Across this diverse country, vintners balance tradition and innovation to produce world-class wines

- ALISON NAPJUS

Without a doubt, part of the beauty of Spanish wine lies in its breadth and diversity. Bottlings encompass a range of styles produced from dozens of different grape varieties, including still reds and whites, sparkling and dessert wines, and distinctive fortified versions. There are more than 70 appellations recognized across Spain’s many regions, encompassing both coastal areas and mountainous landscapes, as well as valleys and plains. Within even a single Denominación de Origen (DO), the terroir can be remarkably varied. Yes, this diversity is a strength, but it’s also a challenge, as Spanish winemakers try to tell the story of their country’s wines to a fragmented global market.

Yet over the course of my recent tastings, I’ve begun to recognize a number of similar themes running through Spain’s offerings. Across the country, I see a reliance on old vines, often of native varieties; I see producers reevaluating traditional practices with a modern eye and through the lens of sustainability; I see a renewed focus on site-specificity and parcelization; and more than ever before, I see winemakers striving for equilibrium and harmony in their wines. These threads are the warp and weft that weave the tapestry of contemporary Spanish wine. It’s a fascinating time for any wine lover to turn their attention to Spain, whether discovering something new or revisiting favored wineries or bottlings.

Since my previous report on the country (“The Diversity of Spain,” Oct. 15, 2022), I have reviewed nearly 350 wines in blind tastings at our New York office. This number represents the shorter time frame I had for this year’s report, as well as