TRUE GRIT Bordeaux's organic revolution

Organic viticulture isn't easy here, but there's a growing shift nevertheless. Our Bordeaux correspondent explains the challenges, and picks 20 top buys for the eco-conscious drinker

- GEORGIE HINDLE

It's a question on many minds today: should you buy organic? From food to household products and cosmetics, a growing number of us – myself included – are choosing organic to limit exposure to harmful chemicals. But does this extend to wine? And should it?

Organic wines are gaining popularity worldwide, driven by consumer demand for healthier, more sustainable options, with compelling stats to match. According to a sustainability report by research specialist IWSR, organic wine volumes grew by 5% globally, 6% in the UK and 7% in the US, from 2017-2022. Statista’s 2024 UK wine report highlights a rising consumer preference for organic wines, fuelled by concerns for health and the environment.

In Bordeaux, this trend is clear: in 2024, 24% of the region’s vineyards were certified organic or in conversion, according to the CIVB Bordeaux wine council. The region aims for 100% of its vineyards to hold sustainable certifications - organic, biodynamic, or others such as High Environmental Value (HVE) - by 2030, and this reflects a bold commitment to greener practices.

Bordeaux organic: why it isn’t easy

Such an accomplishment would be no mean feat. Bordeaux’s maritime climate, with warm temperatures and relatively high rainfall, makes organic viticulture tricky. Diseases like mildew and botrytis thrive here, often requiring robust intervention to suppress them. Conventional farming has long been the go-to, using a range of sprays: contact products such as sulphur and copper, which wash off after 20mm of rain; penetration products that cling to leaves; and systemic sprays absorbed directly into the vine for reliable protection, especially during vulnerable phases like flowering.