STYLE COUNSEL

Bordeaux's diverse range of fresh and vibrant dry whites are surging in popularity

- ANDY HOWARD MW

Bordeaux is famous for its age-worthy reds, but its dry white wines are having a moment. To crib from a well-known US folk artist, 'the times they are a changin' with regards to these typically Sauvignon Blancor Semillon-dominant white wines. Although close to 90% of Bordeaux's 110,000ha under vine are still made up of red grape varieties, production and demand for the region's dry whites continues to rise.

While the Left Bank is a stronghold for dry white Bordeaux, there is more to the region than just Pessac-Léognan and Graves, with many emerging areas where specific cooler sites - often freshened by the presence of limestone - yield exciting, vibrant wines. Indeed, a new Médoc Blanc appellation has been approved for wines bottled in 2025 (subject to an objection period). And while in Sauternes and Barsac sweet wines still reign, there's a growing trend for dry styles there, too.

On the Right Bank, white grapes are grown on diverse plots in St-Emilion and Fronsac, with high-quality wines also found in Blaye, Francs and Côtes de Bourg.

And, with close to 7,000ha under vine (about 1,600ha of white grapes), the Entre-deux-Mers remains a powerhouse for dry whites. Originally oriented to entry-level wines and higher volumes, a new wave of wines is emerging. These balance keen pricing with a fresh, modern style, often with floral, grassy Sauvignon Blanc characters leading the way.

Left Bank activity