MARGAUX A wine lover's guide

Home to more classified growth estates than anywhere else in the Médoc, Margaux is a must-visit for Bordeaux collectors and enthusiasts. A former resident gives his insider advice for aspiring visitors

- CHARLIE GEOGHEGAN

For two months in the spring of 2016, my postal address was ‘Château Palmer’. I was an intern at the Margaux third growth estate, and the deal included some temporary lodgings. Not being French, and having never lived in the countryside, this was quite a departure for me. But I liked living in Margaux. The clean air, the silence and the expansive sky set it apart from anywhere I’ve lived before or since. The vines were a plus, too.

I've long since left, moving house half a dozen times, moving country even. The place has stayed with me, though, the landscape etched into my mind: approaching Margaux from Cantenac along the D2 ‘route des châteaux’, the expanse of vines on one side, the walls of Château d’Issan (see below) on the other, the turrets and flags of Palmer up ahead in the distance. The Médoc may not be the prettiest wine region in the world, but there is beauty to be found - and you need look no further than Margaux.

Exploring the châteaux

Bordeaux is not as closed-off to the world as some would have you believe. It’s possible to rock up to various wineries unannounced for a tasting, at least, and occasionally an impromptu tour. Many have impressive boutiques, where you can buy everything from back vintages to wine accessories, honey and more. That said, this is France, and most châteaux prefer to do things by appointment. You'll get a lot more from the experience if you plan - and book - ahead.

Around one quarter of Margaux’s wineries are part of the 1855 classification, more than anywhere else in the Médoc. Don’t overlook the appellation’s many unclassified estates, though. Some of these supposedly lower-profile châteaux offer world-class hospitality, occasionally putting far loftier names to shame. (See websites for booking details.)