A NEW LANGUAGE

There is a refreshing wave of easy elegance in Indian occasion wear as a batch of young labels champion a new aesthetic. We track the brands that are rethinking Indian crafts with a nod to minimalism

- Words PRAACHI RANIWALA

For a long time, Indian occasion wear was often boxed into a maximalist, loud and kaleidoscopic archetype. But that's a limiting view of the country's craft legacy that champions flamboyance just as easily as it does quiet restraint.

A wave of new labels is proving just that. By reimagining festive wear and Indian silhouettes in unique ways, they have chosen to go high on craftsmanship and detailing, while keeping any gimmicky frills at an all-time low.

RE-CEREMONIAL

From hand-beaded fringe saris to 80-kali lehengas and metal gota cholis, Ateev Anand’s label Re-ceremonial has become the choicest pick for everyone from Alia Bhatt and Priyanka Chopra Jonas to Ananya Panday in the last two years. Mumbai-based Anand, who describes his work as “consciously crafted ceremonial clothing for the new generation of value seekers,” says he isn’t trying to be minimal or maximal. His process is guided by the weaves and a quest to celebrate the wearer’s form through timeless designs.