A VEIL OF A TIME

The veil is having a moment on the Indian bridalscape. Inspired by white weddings, the age-old ghunghat has undergone a couture makeover. With more brides looking toward these translucent swathes of fabric to become mainstays in their bridal outfits, designers are fashioning versions of the trend with their signature embroideries and art.

- Ashwini Arun Kumar

The etymology of the word 'ghunghat' can be traced back to the Sanskrit 'avagunthana' - a cloak-like veil, meant for married women to wear. The word itself is so old, it can be found in the works of the poet Kalidasa circa the 4th century. Historically made to ward off evil, veils - once opaque and unfashionable - have undergone a design renaissance to become the diaphanous couture wonders that they are today. And although Indian ghunghats themselves had started to become less staid over the course of fashion, they were nowhere near being as modern as the veils spotted at white weddings until Indian designers started incorporating elements of those into their bridal designs. Of course, some of pop culture's most famous women, too, have been at the crux of this design trend. While Deepika Padukone introduced a certain Indian-ness to her red Zuhair Murad asymmetrically-structured wedding reception gown with a matching red veil - symbolic of her new status as a married woman, Priyanka Chopra did the opposite. Her red lehenga, designed by Sabyasachi, came with a matching veil that bore a semblance to the one she wore with her Ralph Lauren column gown. Recently, Katrina Kaif's pre-wedding tulle sari, silhouetted like a wedding gown by the designer in an homage to the actor's British roots - came with a matching floral printed veil embroidered with flowery appliqué. The pairing of bridal sari and veil became an instant crowd pleaser, so much so that he has since incorporated it into his collections.