The Atomic Plague

In the wake of the nuclear attacks on Japan, the official Allied line was that radiation sickness was not a danger. Yet, as Steve O'Hagan reveals, the first western journalist to witness the effects on the people of Hiroshima told a very different story

- Steve O'Hagan

At 6am on 2 September 1945, Australian journalist Wilfred Burchett boarded a crowded train heading southwest from the wreckage of war-ravaged Tokyo.

He was disobeying strict orders that no westerners should venture outside the Japanese capital - and, though he did not yet realise it, he was undertaking the most momentous journey of his life.

The Second World War had ended. However, Japan had not formally surrendered, and American occupation was still to come. Japan's cities lay in ruins, and Burchett couldn't even be sure that the train line to his destination, over 400 miles away, was intact. He was also alone and in great danger - hence the Colt .45 pistol in his suitcase.

Resentment towards the Allies ran high. Crammed around Burchett in his carriage were Japanese Army officers bearing samurai swords. Although he spoke almost no Japanese, Burchett could feel the animosity in the soldiers' venomous stares. Also among the passengers was an American priest, who nervously warned Burchett that one wrong move could cost them their lives. Should they smile or shake hands, it could be taken by the Japanese officers as a sign of gloating over the Japanese surrender to the Allies that was being formalised later that day.

Burchett later recalled glancing nervously at the soldiers: their hands seemed to toy with the hilts of their swords. As the train plunged in and out of long, dark tunnels, he was convinced that he could hear the sound of steel being unsheathed from scabbards. Thankfully, the assault he feared never came. But even as the train reached its destination some 20 hours after setting out, his tension did not abate. He was arriving in Hiroshima - the city that, four weeks earlier, had been nigh obliterated by the world's first ever nuclear bomb attack.