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Ina Garten on Calvin Tomkins's “Good Cooking”
The New Yorker
|June 16, 2025
By 1974, when Calvin Tomkins wrote his definitive Profile of Julia Child, she had published both volumes of the wildly successful “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” and was twelve years into her television show, “The French Chef,” on public television in Boston.
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Tomkins captures what made Julia so popular—both the force of her personality and her ability to make people believe that a proper bœuf bourguignon could change their lives. Julia made it look easy, but, as Tomkins shows us, behind the scenes no one worked harder. His descriptions of her cooking demonstrations across the country convey how exhausting they must have been, and how critical they were to her success. Julia believed deeply in the joy that comes from cooking a French dish and genuinely wanted viewers to share her enthusiasm.
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