The Treasures of Tahiti and the Journey of Giants

For decades, French Polynesia's beguiling islands have adorned travel brochures, alluring honeymooners with turquoise lagoons, overwater bungalows, and lush volcanic peaks. Some 7,000 kilometres from its closest neighbours, and spread over five main island groups, the French territory's real treasures are not just what you see in the splashy brochures. Get ready for untamed, wild, ocean encounters.

- Anita Verde

Giant Treasures

If you tuned in to this year’s Olympic Games, you might remember it was a humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) that made waves and stole hearts at the women’s surfing semi-finals on the island of Tahiti. With one single breach, the humpback whale signalled to the world “we have arrived” – not even the tourism board could have executed it more perfectly! Previously the realm of adventurous ocean enthusiasts, 2024 was the year the humpback whale went mainstream.

As our boat motored through the Papeete Channel off the island of Tahiti, we scanned the water’s surface for any sign of whales. A giant tail slap and huge blow signalled we had our first whale of the season. “Get ready! We know this whale well,” proclaimed our guide Julien Anton from renowned operator Tahiti Ocean Explorer. “This is Coco. She’s big and very playful, so be cautious,” he said.

Upon entering the water, we soon realised that this would be like no other encounter we had ever experienced. This was not a resting mother and a curious, rambunctious calf. This was Coco, a three-year-old female, as big as a school bus and as mischievous and playful as the school kids on the bus!

We entered the water quietly and finned the 100 metres or so out to reach her. While we respectfully maintained our distance to Coco, she did not reciprocate! Approaching each of us one by one, she would rise from underneath, extending her large pectoral fins out like a jumbo plane, then pulling them in and barrel-rolling past like a fighter jet. Trying to determine which way she would roll was crucial as we tried to capture her in all her glory. It was all about getting the shot quickly and getting out of her way!