Regal Retreats

Across India, royal families and private hoteliers are turning timeworn palaces into decadent boutique stays.

- BY NEETA LAL

In a world increasingly enamoured with speed, minimalism, and modernity, a stay in one of India's palace hotels feels like stepping into an illuminated manuscript-each corner echoing with centuries-old secrets, each wall steeped in stories. These regal residences, once the sanctuaries of maharajas and nawabs, now welcome guests with a blend of old-world charm and contemporary indulgence. They are not merely hotels-they are living museums, painstakingly restored and reflective of India's princely past.

Once relics of faded grandeur, these properties are staging a comeback as haute hospitality destinations. But behind every mosaic-tiled room service suite lies a fascinating story of finance, family politics—and the billion-rupee bet on nostalgia.

While Rajasthan dominates the heritage hotel landscape, beyond its borders lie lesser-known gems that are equally rich in history and character. The Jehan Numa Palace in Bhopal, Taj Nadesar Palace in Varanasi, Kasmanda Palace in Mussoorie, and The Belgadia Palace in Odisha collectively offer a magical mix of legacy, landscape, and luxury. Each property, still stewarded by its royal lineage, blends the gravitas of historical architecture with the intimacy of a home—and in doing so, they redefine what it means to travel through time.

Jehan Numa Palace, Bhopal

Nestled amidst the verdant Shamla Hills and facing Bhopal's Upper Lake, Jehan Numa Palace is a tribute to a unique chapter in Indian history—one ruled by formidable female nawabs.

Built in 1890 by General Obaidullah Khan, son of Nawab Sultan Jehan Begum (one of four successive female rulers of Bhopal), the palace was originally designed as a royal residence that balanced colonial elegance with Indo-Islamic motifs. Converted into a hotel by the family in the 1980s, it has retained its aristocratic soul.