The Best of Watches and Wonders 2025

Behind the scenes at this spring’s Watches and Wonders Geneva—the most important trade show for haute horology—the clock was ticking to get new releases shipped before the April deadline of President Trump’s proposed tariffs. Swiss watches were set to be taxed at 31%, while those from EU countries were looking at a more modest 20% tariff.

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But the potential trade war didn’t diminish the enthusiasm for this year’s novelties, which included the first new collection from Rolex since 2012 (the Land-Dweller), a revival of Cartier’s Tank à Guichets from the 1920s and the debut of the world’s most complicated wristwatch by Vacheron Constantin.

Here are some of the most beautiful, innovative and buzzed-about new watches that will stand the test of time.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria

A year after debuting the world's most complicated watch, the Berkley Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin thought smaller but went big again-unveiling the world's most complicated wristwatch. Les Cabinotiers Solaria took eight years to create and features 41 complications-including a Gregorian perpetual calendar, a Westminster carillon minute and a celestial map that tracks the constellations in real time. In every sense, it's out of this world. (Price upon request)

Rolex Land-Dweller 40

The Land-Dweller is Rolex’s first new collection since 2012's Sky-Dweller but has more in common with the Oysterquartz from the 1980s. The Jubilee bracelet is now integrated with the case, and the dial has a honeycomb pattern. The Land-Dweller is also powered by a movement that features Rolex’s new Dynapulse escapement, which will likely turn up in future models. ($64,200)

Cartier Tank à Guichets