Magic of the Moray Firth

This leg of Mark Ashley-Miller’s epic Harbour Master challenge takes in northeast Scotland’s varied coastline

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Duncansby Head is the sailors’ John o’ Groats, marking the far northeastern corner of the Scottish mainland. Passing it is a key moment in any circumnavigator’s journey and so often the next heading south would be to Rattray Head and the refuge harbour of Peterhead.

Instead, take a detour, hug the coastline towards Inverness and give yourself time to explore the harbours, inlets and wildlife of the Moray Firth. In September 2021, as part of my Harbour Master Sailing Challenge, this is exactly what I did with the benefit of some calm weather and an enthusiastic crew. Of the 20 harbours we visited, every one gave us a warm welcome, none greater than Wick.

WARM WICK WELCOME

Entering the harbour after dark, we were given friendly guidance on the VHF by fishing boat Emulous who was steaming right behind us – this set the tone for Wick. It was here that Malcolm Bremner became the 100th HM that I met and interviewed as part of my five-year challenge. He proudly told me the story of how he has transformed Wick harbour from a run-down dock into a super-friendly marina that welcomes both yachtsmen and attracts tourists to the town.

Sailing south we stuck close to the dramatic Sutherland coastline. At ancient Whaligoe you can still see the 330 steps carved into the stone up which the wives of fishermen would carry the catch each day. In tiny Lybster harbour we tried to imagine 3,400 people employed curing fish at the height of the herring boom in 1855. At our overnight stop in Helmsdale, I chatted to two retired HMs who had enjoyed watching me bring