Getting muddy in Uganda

After 16 months on the road between France and South Africa, the intrepid Gurneys spend a month in beguiling Uganda.

- PATRICK, MARIE & CALLUM GURNEY

Uganda is big enough to get lost in, yet small enough to get around. It offers a variety of habitats: mountains, lakes, waterfalls, wetlands and savannah. We spent a month getting to know this surprising country.

We collected our son Callum (18) from the airport in Kigali, Rwanda, and drove north to Uganda. The tiny Cyanika border post was really efficient despite the mandatory Ebola checks: Your body temperature is measured, and you have to wash your hands and disinfect your shoes.

Soon we were in Uganda and heading to our first destination: Mgahinga Gorilla National Park.

Primates and fungi

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is part of a transfrontier park with neighbouring conservation areas in Rwanda and the DRC. Unlike the more famous Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, which has 12 habituated groups of mountain gorillas, there is only one group at Mgahinga that tourists can visit. We chose Mgahinga for two reasons: The trekking is easier due to flatter, more open terrain, and there are fewer tourists.

The road to Mgahinga was rather pitted with holes, making it a longer drive than anticipated. After three hours (covering 100 km) we finally arrived at park HQ and set up camp. No camping for Callum – we got him a room.

The following day at 7.30 am, we were briefed and set offin a group of six tourists, with an entourage of guides and trackers nearly double that number.