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Crush It!
Rock and Ice
|February 2018, #248
Improve your pinch strength
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Pinch strength is hard to gain and easy to ignore … until you need it, like I did trying to climb a new 8c+ at Malham last year. The top bulge featured a hideously flared open-handed horror-pinch that stopped me in my tracks … until I went away and trained specifically. The next year I returned to finish the job.
While elite boulderers seem to be able to crush the most marginal sloping features, many sport and trad climbers lag behind in this respect, and favor routes and problems with incut holds. With sloper strength and pinch strength linked, since most slopers require use of the thumb, many climbers are weak in both. Conversely, training in either improves the other.
Denne historien er fra February 2018, #248-utgaven av Rock and Ice.
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