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Year Of The Shark

Surfer

|

November 2016

After being attacked by a great white, losing his brother, and watching the world title slip through his fingers, Mick Fanning should be a broken man. Yet somehow he’s managed to find peace in the chaos.

- Sean Doherty

Year Of The Shark

In Steven Hall’s novel The Raw Shark Texts, the book’s central character is stalked by a “Ludovician,” a giant conceptual shark that swims through his psyche, attacking unexpectedly, devouring great chunks of his memory, leaving him to piece his past life back together while he waits for the beast to strike again.

Ever since his fateful encounter with a great white at Jeffreys Bay last year, Mick Fanning has had sharks—both metaphorical and very real—stalking his quiet moments, circling him in his sleep, and following him into the ocean. The malevolent dream fish began taking huge chunks out of his life—his marriage, his brother, a world title—a lifetime’s worth of outrageous misfortune and tragedy all crammed into a single year. It was a year that felt like black satire for Fanning as he walked a gossamer tightrope between his own earthly mortality and a place among surfing’s immortals.

Whether Mick Fanning was lucky or unlucky at Jeffreys Bay on July 19, 2015, depends on your existential view of the world.

Unlucky? Sure he was. Out of all the surfers in all the oceans, that shark went for him. We’ll never know why, of course. The brain of a great white is a Precambrian mystery—2 feet long, shaped like a slingshot, and hardwired in ways we’ll never understand. As Fanning’s shark took its leisurely Sunday swim up the coast, the big palooka could’ve picked off a weekend surfer down at Mossel Bay, chomped a leathery old swimmer at Magnatubes, or simply inhaled a seal. Instead, this shark had a sense of theater. He swam into J-Bay, waited for the final to start and the cameras to roll, and lined up the champ.

FLERE HISTORIER FRA Surfer

Surfer

Surfer

60 Years Ahead

We had a whole plan for this year. Funny, right? Surfer's 60 year anniversary volume was going to be filled with stories nodding to SURFER’s past, with cover concepts paying homage to the magazine’s most iconic imagery. Our new Page One depicts something that’s never happened in surfing before, let alone on a prior SURFER cover. And our table of contents was completely scrapped and replaced as we reacted to the fizzing, sparking, roiling world around us. In other words, 2020 happened to SURFER, just like it happened to you.

time to read

4 mins

Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020

Surfer

Surfer

A Few Things We Got Horribly Wrong

You don’t make 60 years of magazines without dropping some balls. Here are a few

time to read

7 mins

Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020

Surfer

Surfer

THE LGBTQ+ WAVE

Surf culture has a long history of marginalizing the LGBTQ+ community, but a new generation of queer surfers is working to change that

time to read

21 mins

Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020

Surfer

Surfer

For Generations to Come

Rockaway’s Lou Harris is spreading the stoke to Black youth and leading surfers in paddling out for racial justice

time to read

5 mins

Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020

Surfer

Surfer

Christina Koch, 41

Texas surfer, NASA astronaut, record holder for the longest continuous spaceflight by a woman

time to read

4 mins

Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020

Surfer

Surfer

END TIMES FOR PRO SURFING

By the time the pandemic is done reshaping the world, will the World Tour still have a place in it?

time to read

14 mins

Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020

Surfer

Surfer

CHANGING OF THE GUARD

After decades of exclusive access to Hollister Ranch, the most coveted stretch of California coast is finally going public

time to read

15 mins

Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020

Surfer

Surfer

What They Don't Tell You

How does becoming a mother affect your surfing life?

time to read

23 mins

Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020

Surfer

Four Things to Make You Feel A Little Less Shitty About Everything

Helpful reminders for the quarantine era

time to read

12 mins

Volume 61, Issue 2

Surfer

Surfer

The Art of Being Seen

How a group of black women are finding creative ways to make diversity in surfing more visible

time to read

4 mins

Volume 61, Issue 2

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