Tod's New Driver

Walter Chiapponi’s suave designs for spring give a sneak preview of what he has in store for the Italian brand.

- Kareem Rashed

EVER SINCE THE late 1970s, when Fiat magnate and international style icon Gianni Agnelli was seen strolling in a pair of Tod’s thin, pebble-soled driving moccasins, Gommino loafers have been a fixture of the affluent uniform alongside Louis Vuitton duffle bags and Loro Piana cashmere sweaters. The design’s popularity transformed a modest, family-owned Italian cobbler into a global juggernaut. Shoes have always been the staple, but with a new creative director at the helm, Tod’s is now applying its kid-glove touch to the entire wardrobe.

This marks the first time that one person will be responsible for men’s and women’s fashion as well as leather goods. Instead of a boldfaced name, Diego Della Valle, Tod’s CEO and the grandson of the founder, chose relatively unknown industry veteran Walter Chiapponi to take the reins. After serving as Givenchy’s design director, Chiapponi was on a grand tour of Italianfashion’s biggest names, holding top jobs at Gucci, Valentino, Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta before Della Valle came calling.