Faith in Food

The acclaimed food writer gives tips to make this difficult holiday season joyous

- SAM SIFTON, Brooklyn, New York

THIS YEAR’S HOLIDAY SEASON IS Going to be a memorable one for all of us, if for nothing else because of the pan­ demic. The question is, will we remem­ ber it as a joyous season or one tinged with grief and sadness? I’m hoping that with care and intention, with empathy and understanding, we can keep it spe­cial. In trying times like these, I find the Serenity Prayer especially useful. This heartfelt plea to God to grant us se­renity, courage and wisdom was writ­ ten by American theologian Reinhold Niebuhr, who was also my grandfather.

For me, cooking is a kind of service— to others, to community, to family. For years, I cooked Sunday suppers for my church in Brooklyn, big pots of pasta or stews for friends and strangers, a tradi­ tion that inspired my recent book, See You on Sunday. The Christian church is built around the sacrament of the Eu­charist, a commemoration of the Last Supper. In every religion, food is cen­tral: communion, Shabbos dinner, the feast after Ramadan. People are lonely, now more than ever, and they yearn to be part of something meaningful. Here’s how making and sharing food can make life better over the holidays.