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A sailor's playground

Country Life UK

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August 18, 2021

From pristine bays and teal waters to seals and puffins, Emma Bamford relishes boating around Guernsey

- Emma Bamford

A sailor's playground

WITH its steady winds blowing across crystal-clear waters and endless supply of dramatic, craggy-cliffed coves that harbour secret beaches, Guernsey is a sailor’s dream.

The Bailiwick has a seafaring heritage that goes back almost as far as human history— it is believed that people first travelled here by boat, possibly as early as 4000BC. Guernsey’s strategic position in the English Channel, less than 30 miles from Normandy, allowed it to benefit from seaborne trade—in the 17th century, privateering became a key source of income. Today, the boating scene is, thankfully, less bloodthirsty.

The Bailiwick is made up of eight islands, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm, and the smaller islets of Brecqhou, Jethou, Burhou and Lihou. Archipelagos make the best destinations for boating holidays, providing a menu of islands to explore, anchorages to suit different weather conditions and plenty of adventures. I’ve sailed all over the world and I’d say this area is a perfect cross between the seascapes of the Bahamas and Sardinia, with the same laid-back ambience of Greece. Add good seafood (the ormer mollusc is a sought-after local delicacy), the kind of wildlife you might spot in Scandinavia—think puffins and seals—and fine French weather, and sailing around this Crown dependency starts to feel as fresh as travelling abroad.

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